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Tuesday, 18 June 2013 08:51 |
Chado Ralph Rucci dropped the "Chado" back in April and is now known simply as Ralph Rucci. The name change was the beginning of a big push for the New York brand. Today, Rucci was on set at the brand's first advertising campaign in ages; the Steven Meisel-lensed images will appear in September magazines. Later this month, the company is moving out of its Soho studio for a larger space in Chelsea. And on the racks, there was the beginning of a knits collection that the designer plans to develop and separate into its own business.
More proof that Rucci has growth on his mind: the Rorschach print of his own design that appeared on everything from a slinky matte jersey tank dress to a cotton canvas jacket with the sculptural properties of an upholstery fabric. Rucci has seemed fairly print-averse recently, but a designer simply can't ignore them when they're so big at retail. Resort also finds Rucci experimenting with silhouette; an asymmetric, undulating neckline appeared on everything from a pair of silk tanks layered over full-legged pants to a white sequined evening dress.
Other than that, there were new takes on old favorites: silk shantung separates in jewel tones, jackets with sheer mesh insets front and back, a dramatic white cotton blouse with tone-on-tone embroidery inspired by the work of the artist Louise Nevelson. A few pieces looked especially sharp. They were a satin coat in a still of-the-moment python print, and gowns in chiffon-weight lamé with cutouts at the midriff.
—Nicole Phelps
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Tuesday, 18 June 2013 08:51 |
Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Tuesday, 18 June 2013 08:51 |
Ease has been a key talking point over the last couple weeks of Resort shows. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli work in the relative isolation of Rome, but they're feeling the new, relaxed mood, too. They do it the Valentino way, of course. There's nothing undone about their new collection, but it does mark the first time they've ever put denim in the lineup. They created four styles, but the one they're really getting behind is high-waisted, full through the leg, and cropped a couple inches above the floor. Casual pants, never a Valentino specialty, are another new focus for the duo. Other daywear pieces have the familiar look of uniforms—military, schoolgirl, maybe even a shade of factory worker in a pink pleated jumpsuit.
It's harder to convey that sense of ease for evening. The pieces that came closest, in multicolor floral macramé embroidery on what looked like raw linen, were the best. A double-layer white tee worn with a narrow, midi-length skirt in that embroidery had a folksy appeal that felt fresher than the fluorescent pieces that were the designers' other focus for after-dark. It'd be fascinating to see them adapt those earthier ideas on their Couture runway next month.
—Nicole Phelps
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Tuesday, 18 June 2013 08:51 |
The Australia-based Zimmermann brand staged its first official stateside presentation for Resort this week. Citing films like Badlands and Picnic at Hanging Rock as influences, designer Nicky Zimmermann said the collection was "loosely based on the classic tale of a good girl falling for a bad boy." Her theme was reflected in the show's marked progression from ethereal ivory and foiled-gold looks to moodier dark ones. Beyond the color palette, there was a sexual spark running through the lineup—even in the opening white pieces, which included an on-trend lace maxi dress with contoured panels of transparent lace, and an organza pinafore frock with floaty flounces. On the vampier side, she showed slinky fringed gowns with plunging necklines and a backless halter number in an allover paisley print. The label is best known for its swimwear, and Zimmermann found fresh ways to incorporate alluring one-pieces here. Their laser-cut details, metallic thread embroidery, and ruffles ensured they'll enjoy a life beyond the beach.
—Brittany Adams
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Tuesday, 18 June 2013 08:51 |
Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Monday, 17 June 2013 10:06 |
Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
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Monday, 17 June 2013 10:06 |
The hum of arrival has settled on Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton—better known as Agi & Sam. Only a season out from their 18-month stint in the young-designer-supporting MAN shows, they've got a new Topshop collection (out now), support from the industry (from Paul Smith to E. Tautz's Patrick Grant), and a restless energy that makes even frenetic London look poky by comparison. (Their show today featured collaborations with separate companies to create shoes, bags, and laptop cases.)
Perhaps because of this and-the-kitchen-sink mentality, their collections vary widely season to season, though it's usually safe to say they'll be brightly colored and boldly printed. Both, broadly speaking, were true here. But the emphasis on sartorial pyrotechnics—the taped seams, the rubbery treatments, the three-dimensional "prints"—undercut some of the naïve charm that has animated collections past. This one, in any case, came prefaced by a sweetly meandering parable about an old man, attached to his usual clothes but curious about the outfits worn by the kids he sees on the bus. Hence, a bus-bench print. But the collection's overall message was garbled. Sometimes, despite assurances to the contrary, it's not just about the journey. It is the destination.
—Matthew Schneier
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